Bambu Lab Filament Cutter Stopper — H2D / H2C

Bambu Lab Filament Cutter Stopper — H2D / H2C

Every H2D and H2C has two filament cutter stopper assemblies, mounted on the left and right walls of the print chamber. Their job is simple but critical: hold the cutter firmly in position so it can shear the filament cleanly each time the printer swaps materials or unloads a spool. When a stopper starts skipping teeth or binding up, cuts go long, short or missed entirely — and that shows up as dragged filament, jammed changes and failed multi-material prints.

These are the genuine Bambu Lab replacement assemblies. They are chiral — the left and right units are mirror images of each other, not the same part flipped over — so you need to order the side that matches the fault. Each one arrives as a complete assembly with its four mounting screws.

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When you need one

• The printer reports HMS 07FE_4500_0002_0002 — "the filament cutter's cutting distance is too large". A stopper skipping teeth is one of the listed causes.
• Filament is pulled back out of the hotend uncut during an AMS change, then jams on the next load.
• Cuts are ragged, partial or intermittent on one nozzle but fine on the other — a clear pointer to which side to order.
• You can hear a loud clack or grinding from one side of the chamber as the cutter actuates.
• You're building a spares kit for a busy workshop, classroom or print farm and want a known-good replacement on the shelf.

Worth checking first: a sliver of filament caught between the plastic carrier and the metal feed tube can stall the mechanism and mimic a worn stopper. Power the printer off, unplug it, clear the debris and retest. If the fault returns, replace the assembly.

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Which configuration is right for you?

Both options cost the same and contain the same hardware — the only difference is handedness. Work out which side is misbehaving (run a filament change and watch, or listen for the noisy side) and order that one. If both sides are worn, order one of each.

	Left	Right
Bambu part number	FAC101	FAC102
Mounts on	Left side of the print chamber	Right side of the print chamber
Choose it when	The left nozzle's cuts fail, or the left stopper skips	The right nozzle's cuts fail, or the right stopper skips
Interchangeable?	No — chiral, left only	No — chiral, right only
Contents	Stopper ×1 + BT2.6-8 ×2 + M2.5-5 ×2	Stopper ×1 + BT2.6-8 ×2 + M2.5-5 ×2

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What's in the box

• 1 × Filament Cutter Stopper assembly (Left or Right, as selected)
• 2 × BT2.6-8 screws
• 2 × M2.5-5 screws

Sold individually — one side per unit. Not included: the H2.0 Allen key, the replacement cutter blade and the cutter lever, which are separate Bambu Lab spares.

Fitting it

Bambu Lab's own procedure is short and tool-light. Power the printer off and disconnect it from mains power before you start. An H2.0 Allen key releases the four fixing screws that hold the stopper — two BT2.6×8 and two M2.5×5. Before refitting, move the X axis forward toward the front glass door to give yourself access, then seat the new assembly and torque the four screws back up with the hardware supplied. Full step-by-step photos are on the Bambu Lab wiki under Replace Filament Cutter Stopper (H2).

Specifications

Product	Filament Cutter Stopper assembly (spare part)
Part numbers	FAC101 (Left) · FAC102 (Right)
Compatibility	H2D, H2D Laser, H2C, H2C Laser (also listed for H2D Pro)
Not compatible with	H2S, P2S and X2D — those use their own stopper part numbers
Materials	Plastic and metal
Colour	Black
In the box	Stopper ×1, BT2.6-8 screw ×2, M2.5-5 screw ×2
Tool required	H2.0 Allen key (not supplied)
Units per printer	2 (one left, one right) — sold separately
Package size	100 × 135 × 45 mm
Gross weight	0.083 kg

Who it's for

Anyone running an H2D or H2C hard — multi-material makers, product designers cycling through filaments all day, schools where the printer gets used by a new class every period, and small manufacturers who can't afford a day of downtime waiting on an overseas parcel. The repair is well within reach of a confident beginner: four screws, one Allen key, no wiring and no calibration afterwards.